Naples

Don't be deceived by the look of some of the facades of buildings, for hidden behind are often many marvels to behold. Naples is fascinating, different and intriguing. Fine work of Neapolitan craftsmen can be found in boutiques all over Naples.

Negotiating the city is not as fraught with danger as some people say. There are certain no-go neighbourhoods in the evenings (Forcella and Ponticelli for example) but most of Naples is like any other city. In rush hour the traffic grinds to a halt, so walking or using public transport is best (funicular railways are very efficient). The hills and harbor, and especially the castles and palaces such as Castel dell'Ovo or Castel Sant'Elmo, provide reliable orientation in the maze of streets in the old part of the city. Locals have a reputation for friendliness and hospitality, but beware of pickpockets.

In the first days of November, the streets between Piazza San Gaetano and Via San Biagio dei Librai become the most animated and crowded in the city because stall-holders fuel the annual craze for presepi (Christmas cribs) which are unique in Italy because Jesus, Mary & Joseph are often accompanied by singers, politicians, football players and actors.